Eat - Sleep - Bike - Repeat... Slovakia and Poland

 Cycling Slovakia wilderness. July 2017

A great week here on part of the Amber trail. Tough 70km climb the 2nd day to Banska Stiavnica  - a nice world heritage mining town. We had a day off and looked around thanks to the very informative tourist centre guy then next day made our way 65km on a variety of quiet rds to Banksa Bystrica. A lovely old town in the centre, music, food and beer filled in the summer evening. 

Then a tough day. Not sure the lady at the info centre had ever been on a bike! But she convinced us the castle route was the one to take. It was a great way to leave the city, anything to stay off main highways.Then up through Spania Dolma - really steep - where we visited an ancient church - then on up to Donavoly, a ski area. We ended up taking a cross country route, it started well as tarmac but disintegrated to mud, rocks and finally grass - it took us all day to do 35 km. Definitely an adventure, we did see hikers, a haymaker and a sheep herder so not totally isolated. But very pleased to get somewhere in the end - laxed out enjoying the 1 euro beer and tennis on tv at the local pub. Every settlement in Slovakia has a bar. Before a shop. Beer is cheaper than coffee - actually it's hard to buy coffee. Locals have beer with a shot - gin I am told! We did around 65 km each day down through Dolny Kubin where we camped then stayed right near the border with Poland, clocking over 2000km that day. It was really hot all week. We arrived near the border on a Sunday afternoon. There was a bottle store, restaurant, pool, bbq and two apartments upstairs. We decided it looked good and were soon settled in. It was quite busy with people around. But about 7 there was no one. Everything was locked up, we were locked in. No tv, radio or wifi. It was sooo eerily quiet! We played cards, had a great sleep, let ourselves out the next morning and were in Poland by 8am. 

The start of the trail to Donavoly.

Run out of food - I have resorted to dry muesli...

Welcome sight of the village.

Lovely ski lodge for the night.

Another old castle 

Poland

It's not all about Pierogi in Poland! 

We cycled exactly 1000km in Poland. 

First day was 90km through lots of villages, they just rolled from one to the other then went around a lake and on to Auschwitz. Spotted a couple of deer running down a river bed. Narrow roads and speedy drivers. We were really frazzled and spent the day going on and off footpaths. We toured Auschwitz - Birkenau the next day. Just a sad sad place. 

We took the regional train to Krakow - what a great city. We stayed 4 nights, a brand new apartment right on the edge of the old city for just 40 euro. The $NZ goes a long way here. Wages are very low.  Everything is about a third of the price of NZ. Krakow old town and squares are surrounded by trees with cycling and walking paths all around it. We did a tour of the Wieliczka salt mine. It goes down about 135 metres underground. Really interesting. It opened in the 13th century. There are lots of Chapels made by the miners. Plus the Castle visit. And so many churches! I think Poland has more churches than Italy.

Then a few small rides around the river, a visit to the Jewish quarter where there was a festival on and lots of walking. Plus lots of eating. A great hole in the wall pierogi place - dumplings with filling -  just around the corner. Potato and bacon, cabbage and mushroom - Yum. Lots of tourists in the old town but fun and vibrant. 

Auschwitz

 Cathedral underground in the salt mine

Krakow pic

krakow around the castle area

Krakow old town

After some investigation and plan changing we  took the train east across country to Lublin so we could cycle the green velo north on cycle paths and quiet roads. The day riding to Auschwitz had almost put us off cycling in Poland! We stayed with a lovely couple and their adorable wee girl in Lublin for 2 nights.(warm showers hosts) Visited Majdanek concentration camp - and decided 2 was enough...the history of these countries jammed between Russia and Germany is pretty unpleasant. Another castle another old town!

Michael took us to a national park for an 8 km evening walk which was great despite the zillions of mosquitoes - 100 km round trip driving! Next day we followed a signed cycle route to his parents place - 70 km and enjoyed a fabulous night with them and his 2 other brothers. They translated well between us and their parents and we had lots of laughs around the fire.

Majdanek concentration camp Lublin 

A well documented memorial.

Out walking

Admiring the view

 Fun evening 

Random tank along the way

We started the green velo pretty much at the Ukraine/Belerus/Poland border and cycled 

800 km in 11 days. The full trail is 2000km.  The temperature dropped about 10 degrees after Lublin. Fantastic to cycle in mid 20's.

An easy relaxing way north. Good free maps with all the things to see, places to stay plus what is in each town on it.  Shelters every 10 km or so. Quiet roads. Not too many accommodation options but we managed. First night we stayed in a monastry. Sparten room but comfortable. Lots of rooms available. Next day we met a gorgeous young Polish couple - Adam and Anje. We had lunch with them at a shelter then caught up with them later in the afternoon standing in the middle of a deserted road. Adam had just proposed! So sweet. We met up again and stayed at the only hotel in town which was really flash and had the best breakfast. Next day we crossed the winding Bug river, no bridges but a free motorless ferry that was winched across. We found an 'agri-touristic' to stay in. Basically a room and bathroom in someones house. The guy spoke just one word of English, SUPER, so  that's what he said. We had been settled in a couple of hours before Adam and Anje arrived at 8pm. They had had a big day rescuing an abandoned kitten and finding it a home on a farm! There was no where left in town to stay and the next option was way further on. The room we had was big enough and had 2 beds so we all stayed together. It was great having them there to translate - apparently the guys wife was away and he usually had nothing to do with renting the rooms but was really nice and happy to help out. Plus very chatty in Polish. He showed us all his Russian tractor, hay and horse. A Super night!

Yes we are going to Zubry with Adam&Anje

Swamp day

A small church

No motor across the Bug river

Crossing the river

The route took us through the Bialowieza national park a primeval forest and world heritage sight. There are bison, lynx, wolves and more in the park but we didn't see anything. A night in the main town in the park and finally a restaurant - we were getting a bit tired of bread l, cheese and salami. These are small villages, very rural. Next day we met up with Adam and Anje again. - accidently! - and they then booked us to stay with them at a dinner bed and breakfast in Zubry. An old school renovated into a guest house in the absolute middle of nowhere. But fantastic. Lovely couple running it, great food and good room. Finally into Bialostock the only city we went to on the route where we stayed with a lovely family for 2 nights. (warm showers) Nice to have a day off and chill out plus it was raining hard out. Trevor got a haircut,  looks like he should be in the army!

Recharged and off early next morning, 110km later - our longest distance so far took us way west and north of the city through another park. There was nowhere to stay along the way so we just had to keep going to Goniadz. On to Augustow - lovely holiday town -  then last night in Poland was in Suwalki. 

Reflections of Poland, memorable for the lovely people we met and were lucky enough to spend time with.  Very traditional and conservative but the younger generations are trying hard to be heard and to change things.  Lots of people leave for higher wages in other countries. Monocultural.  Protests against the conservative, religious govt re their desire to change the judicial system have been loud and clear from opponents. Go the young progressive people - make lots of noise! 

So 3000km done, onward to the Baltic counries of  Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia before northern Norway. 

The remains of the Russian Tsar autumn retreat

Storks on every power pole. So cool!

Vienna to Budapest, Highs, lows and HOT

Back stage with my youngest brother Brendan, Cold Play concert - Vienna

Gotta say this was a highlight! After cycling around corn and wheat fields on the eurovelo 9 on the 'thermal spa route' finally getting to Vienna was huge. Wouldn't recommend that route, unless you have plenty of money to spend pampering yourself each night, and are keen on joining the white dressing gown clad groups at the spa towns. 

So back a day or 2,  Bad Radkursberg to Jennersdorf in south east Austria-75km

Cycling became a bit boring. Close to Hungary and Slovenia borders up and down through fields only popping up into one village. Finishing our emergency food in the absence of any cafes. But finally a lovely village and a stunning swimming pool complex in front of the campground, fantastic at the end of another hot day. Would have had a rest day if we were not rushing to Vienna.

We decided to get the regional train from just 14 km away to Vienna. Such a great idea as the route looked the same all the way. After a frantic race cross country around more wheat fields we made it in time to find there was just a self serve ticket box and timetable in German. With a bit of help from a shop assistant we got a ticket. Then on the train an enthusiastic Austrian train controller got us sorted changing trains and figuring out the right stop. We found our way right from the station on cycle paths all the way across the Danube to a campground - pretty average but close to the underground and the stadium. 

Saturday saw us looking around the beautiful city, amazing old buildings, then meeting up with Brendan for dinner. Brendan is part of the catering team who are on tour cooking for the Cold Play support team. About 165 pax! 

So we were very lucky to get family and friends treatment... Plus enjoyed the fabulous Sunday evening concert on a stunning summer night in Vienna!!!  

It was a great insight into band touring. We had a quick dinner with the crew b4 the concert after a few drinks and nibbles with a select few other people back stage...  After the concert the whole catering team was packed up waiting on the rest of the crew to finish. Then about 1am they departed in big black sleeper buses, 2 drivers plus crew in each, driving all through the night (and sometimes the next day) off to the next venue. Something that amazed me at the concert was that despite all the security people could still smoke, waving lighters and cigarettes around in such closed quarters. We were right down by the stage and so many people dancing and lighting fags and flicking lighters  - Freedom in Austria??? 

Enjoyed a 30km ride around  Vienna on the bike paths. So easy to get around. Fabulous seeing places I have grown up reading about and where lots of famous musicians lived. 

Actually on stage b4 the concert. 

Vienna - Bratsilava and beyond -  90km

After 3 early mornings, full days and late nights we left Vienna on the eurovela 6 heading east. An 8.30 start, a boring 50km without seeing anyone else and no river to see either. Eventually a coffee and icecream stop. Getting close to what used to be the iron curtain border villages became infrequent, further apart and a bit run down. Nothing like the Austrian alps area that we all see in the travel brochures. Then across the border, back to the river into Slovakia and the capital Bratsilava. Lots of big boats cruising up the river. We had an ice cream in the tourist street then waited in the huge queue for groceries and carried on along the river. A bit nicer on the trail here due to more people being about plus a few cafes and bars along the way. 90km done we found a campground at an impressive slalom kayak spot where lots of international teams were practicing. But no shade, lots of bugs and limited facilities.  Not the best day and sweltering in a tent made it not the best night!

Hungary

Goyr in Hungary

Onwards to Goyr - 65 km 

Packed up and away early. Quickly across the border into Hungary. Slightly more interesting ride today. Stopped for coffee at a local bar about 15km from Goyr. The cappuccino arrived with a huge dollop of canned cream on top. Then we were shouted a beer each by a local patron who didn't want us to leave but couldn't speak a word of English. Another couple of older locals arrived towing a trailer of stakes for the tomato plants. We met Xandor, he spoke English really well and invited us to put up our tent in his garden so we did. We met two of his sons and his wife Elizabeth and learnt lots about the lovely town of Goyr, about Hungary and about life before and after the Russians left. Really lovely family, great meeting and chatting to local people. 

Gyor to Komarno - 60 km 

After breakie at a local cafe we said goodbye and continued on a fairly rough route to Komarno. By 2pm we were over the eurovelo 6 - stinking hot - have I mentioned we are in the middle of an extreme heatwave? We were on our way to meet friends from Taupo in Budapest so followed the train line to the station and hey presto we were in Budapest by 5pm. A frantic ride through rush hour traffic but were quickly at the 2 room apartment sharing a cold beer with Jim and Julie. Fantastic. 

Goyr

Local Goyr family

View from our apartment in Budapest

Had a great few days being tourists in Budapest. Easy enough to get around on a bike. Fun time with friends. We all stuffed up on exchanging money - we ended up with 10x what we wanted - so plenty to spend. 

St Stephen's chapel

Another square

Looking from Buda to Pest

Danube with parliament in the background

The A team out n about 

The boys 

Shoes on the Danube - a poignant war memorial

Ruin bar visit

Budapest to Visegard 63 km

The 4 of us packed up and were on our way by 10. Jim successfully navigated us through the city and across the river then it was a collective effort to find the eurovelo 6 trail. Seems it goes a lot of places on either side of the river, in Hungary and Slovakia. Signs were confusing but we had a nice ride and a campground to ourselves. 

Next morning we cycled about 15km with Jim and Julie then we crossed the river to go north and they continued west towards Vienna. 

Visegard to Sahy - 67 km

Onto quiet roads cruising slowly north. So much nicer than a confusing trail being part of a wave of cyclists. We still had nearly $50 nz to spend so stopped at every store in every village. Impossible to spend. We managed to buy eggs, juice, bananas, bread, pasta sauce and cheese,  that was it. Plus Coffee, lunch, icecream and beer and heaps left over. Crossed the border back into Slovakia - no one wants Hungarian florens there but it was quite a big town so there was a money exchange booth up the road!!  Found an ok motel for the night. Getting cheaper at only 35 euro. So now on what is known as the Amber trail - selection of quiet routes -  that go from Budapest in Hungary through Slovakia to Krakow in Poland. 

I Feel sLOVEnia. Their slogan

SLOVENIA - the only country with love in it's name - so they tell us. May 31 - June 8 

Travisio - Kobarid 55km

Up up & up over the pass then an incredibly steep down, stunning views of the Julian alps, until we reached the Soca river valley and cruised into Kobarid. Nice coffee stop on the way down. Price has gone down to Euro 1.30!! Supplies were being delivered by van to the mtn villages we cycled through. First impressions - the people are very friendly. Quiet, Traditional. Unpopulated. Very little traffic. The soca river is a beautiful blue green colour. Adventure tourism around there. Loads of kayakers. Great campground. Wandered up to a gorgeous waterfall on dusk. Lots of war caves in the area. Picked up a good map of cycle routes. 

Kobarid to Koritnica - 58km

A really hot day as we made our way down the river valley. Stocked up in Tolmin - a slightly larger town. Had a long afternoon break by the river b4 heading up and up to Koritnica. Clocked over our first 1000km so celebrated in style with a couple of Lasko beers, a bag of chips and then a pot of gnocchi - a change from tortellini! Thought we were going to be the only 2 in the campground but a couple of guys arrived late in a jeep. But seems the camp bar/pizzeria was the local evening hangout so we were not lonely. 

Koritnica to Bohiniska 50 km 

We are (reluctant) HILL CLIMBERS! Toughest day so far. A huge climb in the heat. Then the road we were supposed to take along the ridge was closed due to rd works so we had to go 7 km down to a river then back up another rd which was incredibly steep. The sign at the bottom showed 16% with arrows for 3km. It was so tough. We were zigzagging our way up with me saying - yelling -  if I have to get off to push my bike then we are turning around and heading for Ljubljana instead of Lake Bled! We made the 3km to a small village. We collapsed in a heap at the bar/cafe and eventually ordered lunch. The meals were massive. I had an omelette which came with half a plate of fries and Trevor had a pizza big enough for 4. An hour later, 2 coffees and iced water in our drink bottles and off we went. Straight on up. We reached the other end of the closed road where we should have come out then it just continued on and on up. Another 8 km. We had eaten way too much and were paying for it. So slow, so hard and took forever to get to the ski field at the top. We had just started the descent when we met a cross country skier training with his blades and poles coming up the other side. Now that is tough! We decided to stop in Bohiniska as we were exhausted and it looked like the afternoon thunder clouds were rolling in. 

Bohiniska to Lake Bled 32 km

Only 20km to Lake Bled. A fast cycle down the valley. We were all set up in the campground b4 lunch. A beautiful spot right near the lake. There is a 6km walk/bike around the lake so we biked around and through the town area. There is a small island with a church on it in the middle if the lake. Also a big castle high above the lake. We walked up to a viewpoint. Lake Bled is quite iconic in Slovenia. Very picturesque. 

Lake Bled to Ljubljana 67 km

There are lots of cycle routes around this area. You could spend a week or more just cycling around them all but we decided to continue as planned to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. But we did follow the D2 route that took us on lots of quiet roads through villages to Kange and then back roads to Ljubljana. No highways at all and right into the centre of the city on a bike path.  We stayed in a small apartment for 2 nights. First washing machine! Had a good look around the city centre - quite old and historic, a river goes through the middle so there are lots of bridges. We walked up to the castle and enjoyed the big park nearby. A green city where everyone seems active. Had our first full day off the bikes. But our feet and backs hurt from walking too far. 

Ljubljana to Maribor - caught the train to here to save a couple of days as have plans in Vienna for the weekend... But looked to be a flat ride. They only have the local trains here. 2 carriages. Not much space for our bikes. So we had to jump up at every stop to move one bike from the door way - to let people on or off - there were 25 stops on the 2.5 hr journey! A nice wander around the 2nd largest city, didn't seem big at all. But a huge shopping centre with the best supermarket we have seen in a month complete with cafe outside so Trevor was happy hanging with the bikes. And free wifi which has been everywhere in Slovenia. I actually enjoy shopping in foreign shops. Trying to figure out what it is I am buying and there are lots of interesting delis and breads. We've been loving all the summer fruit. Cherries, strawberries, nectarines and apricots have been great. 

Loaded up (complete with 1/2 a cooked chook) we biked 7km out to the campground under another skifield currently sporting the summer luge. Great place to stay - have to say the facilities for camping have been fantastic. With great summer weather it has been nice sitting outside - cooking our own food and nice chatting to other people. Met lots of Barvarian couples in campers lately. They seem to say they are from Barvaria - not Germany.

Maribor to Bad Radensburg - Austria- 70 km

Cruised along - now on the eurovelo 9, about 35 km we stopped in Senjli which was an important border stronghold over the years and scene of many struggles. Not now, straight through to Austria no-one there.

Its been interesting learning some of the history of Slovenia, so many invasions and takeovers by so many countries over the centuries. There were many important trade routes through here. Just the last 26 years since the iron curtain fell apart and Yugoslavia split up has it been able to just be its own country. A lovely country. Peaceful. Well maintained. Everyone has their vege plot. No one seems in a rush. Friendly. Fantastic for cycling. But the people tell us they are still working just to make ends meet and have nothing leftover for a holiday or leisure activities. Low wages. Many villages with just the aging population as the young ones leave. Appears to be another European union country struggling.

Leaving Italy for Slovenia

Passo no 2 - not too bad

We cycled down through there somewhere!

Stunning scenery

Soca river 

Just look for the church steeple to find the town centre.

The first passo of the hill climb day.

Lake Bled

Crossing the river to Ljubljana

 Ljubljana

 Ljubljana