Friday 23 June 2017

Vienna to Budapest, Highs, lows and HOT

Back stage with my youngest brother Brendan, Cold Play concert - Vienna

Gotta say this was a highlight! After cycling around corn and wheat fields on the eurovelo 9 on the 'thermal spa route' finally getting to Vienna was huge. Wouldn't recommend that route, unless you have plenty of money to spend pampering yourself each night, and are keen on joining the white dressing gown clad groups at the spa towns. 

So back a day or 2,  Bad Radkursberg to Jennersdorf in south east Austria-75km
Cycling became a bit boring. Close to Hungary and Slovenia borders up and down through fields only popping up into one village. Finishing our emergency food in the absence of any cafes. But finally a lovely village and a stunning swimming pool complex in front of the campground, fantastic at the end of another hot day. Would have had a rest day if we were not rushing to Vienna.

We decided to get the regional train from just 14 km away to Vienna. Such a great idea as the route looked the same all the way. After a frantic race cross country around more wheat fields we made it in time to find there was just a self serve ticket box and timetable in German. With a bit of help from a shop assistant we got a ticket. Then on the train an enthusiastic Austrian train controller got us sorted changing trains and figuring out the right stop. We found our way right from the station on cycle paths all the way across the Danube to a campground - pretty average but close to the underground and the stadium. 
Saturday saw us looking around the beautiful city, amazing old buildings, then meeting up with Brendan for dinner. Brendan is part of the catering team who are on tour cooking for the Cold Play support team. About 165 pax! 
So we were very lucky to get family and friends treatment... Plus enjoyed the fabulous Sunday evening concert on a stunning summer night in Vienna!!!  
It was a great insight into band touring. We had a quick dinner with the crew b4 the concert after a few drinks and nibbles with a select few other people back stage...  After the concert the whole catering team was packed up waiting on the rest of the crew to finish. Then about 1am they departed in big black sleeper buses, 2 drivers plus crew in each, driving all through the night (and sometimes the next day) off to the next venue. Something that amazed me at the concert was that despite all the security people could still smoke, waving lighters and cigarettes around in such closed quarters. We were right down by the stage and so many people dancing and lighting fags and flicking lighters  - Freedom in Austria??? 
Enjoyed a 30km ride around  Vienna on the bike paths. So easy to get around. Fabulous seeing places I have grown up reading about and where lots of famous musicians lived. 

Actually on stage b4 the concert. 

Vienna - Bratsilava and beyond -  90km
After 3 early mornings, full days and late nights we left Vienna on the eurovela 6 heading east. An 8.30 start, a boring 50km without seeing anyone else and no river to see either. Eventually a coffee and icecream stop. Getting close to what used to be the iron curtain border villages became infrequent, further apart and a bit run down. Nothing like the Austrian alps area that we all see in the travel brochures. Then across the border, back to the river into Slovakia and the capital Bratsilava. Lots of big boats cruising up the river. We had an ice cream in the tourist street then waited in the huge queue for groceries and carried on along the river. A bit nicer on the trail here due to more people being about plus a few cafes and bars along the way. 90km done we found a campground at an impressive slalom kayak spot where lots of international teams were practicing. But no shade, lots of bugs and limited facilities.  Not the best day and sweltering in a tent made it not the best night!

Hungary

Goyr in Hungary

Onwards to Goyr - 65 km 
Packed up and away early. Quickly across the border into Hungary. Slightly more interesting ride today. Stopped for coffee at a local bar about 15km from Goyr. The cappuccino arrived with a huge dollop of canned cream on top. Then we were shouted a beer each by a local patron who didn't want us to leave but couldn't speak a word of English. Another couple of older locals arrived towing a trailer of stakes for the tomato plants. We met Xandor, he spoke English really well and invited us to put up our tent in his garden so we did. We met two of his sons and his wife Elizabeth and learnt lots about the lovely town of Goyr, about Hungary and about life before and after the Russians left. Really lovely family, great meeting and chatting to local people. 

Gyor to Komarno - 60 km 
After breakie at a local cafe we said goodbye and continued on a fairly rough route to Komarno. By 2pm we were over the eurovelo 6 - stinking hot - have I mentioned we are in the middle of an extreme heatwave? We were on our way to meet friends from Taupo in Budapest so followed the train line to the station and hey presto we were in Budapest by 5pm. A frantic ride through rush hour traffic but were quickly at the 2 room apartment sharing a cold beer with Jim and Julie. Fantastic. 

Goyr

Local Goyr family



View from our apartment in Budapest

Had a great few days being tourists in Budapest. Easy enough to get around on a bike. Fun time with friends. We all stuffed up on exchanging money - we ended up with 10x what we wanted - so plenty to spend. 

St Stephen's chapel

Another square

Looking from Buda to Pest

Danube with parliament in the background

The A team out n about 

The boys 
Shoes on the Danube - a poignant war memorial
Ruin bar visit

Budapest to Visegard 63 km
The 4 of us packed up and were on our way by 10. Jim successfully navigated us through the city and across the river then it was a collective effort to find the eurovelo 6 trail. Seems it goes a lot of places on either side of the river, in Hungary and Slovakia. Signs were confusing but we had a nice ride and a campground to ourselves. 
Next morning we cycled about 15km with Jim and Julie then we crossed the river to go north and they continued west towards Vienna. 
Visegard to Sahy - 67 km
Onto quiet roads cruising slowly north. So much nicer than a confusing trail being part of a wave of cyclists. We still had nearly $50 nz to spend so stopped at every store in every village. Impossible to spend. We managed to buy eggs, juice, bananas, bread, pasta sauce and cheese,  that was it. Plus Coffee, lunch, icecream and beer and heaps left over. Crossed the border back into Slovakia - no one wants Hungarian florens there but it was quite a big town so there was a money exchange booth up the road!!  Found an ok motel for the night. Getting cheaper at only 35 euro. So now on what is known as the Amber trail - selection of quiet routes -  that go from Budapest in Hungary through Slovakia to Krakow in Poland. 


5 comments:

  1. libby here, keep the blogs coming, take care you two. awesome you met up with Brendan, the scenery is gorgeous

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  2. Great to hear your adventures. We have spent some time on the amber trail. You will enjoy Krakow. Love Clyff and Alison.

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  3. Enjoy the lovely weather. Evie just read your blog. Sends her love xx Ours too xx Jo and Pete

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