After the stressful end to the previous day we had an enjoyable day off and stayed at our Spanish haven, great buffet breakkie under the pagoda, loads of breads, crepes, jam, feta, olives, tomatoes, fresh OJ and coffee. Rain was threatening and still cold so we took the room that had become vacant.
Next morning we biked the remaining 12km uphill into Chefcheoun, so glad we didn't do that in the dark! Found a gorgeous place to stay in the medina (maze of narrow streets within a walled area.) Great breakfast on the rooftop each day. Quite upmarket, hard to believe it is the same Morocco as a few days ago. This medina was big enough for us to get lost in, all the streets look the same. Quiet day looking around and climbed high above the town the next day. Lots of stalls selling touristy stuff, plenty of visitors around for Easter weekend.
Chefcheoun to Oued Laou - 63 km
Off down the hill out of town to be met by a strong chilly wind. The main rd was quite narrow and we were getting blown all over the place so headed out on a quieter rd towards the coast. Stunning scenery around big cliffs and through a gorge but the weather deteriorated until we were in rain and blustery wind (almost sleet) so not many photos taken that day. Mountain jackets on and almost hyperthermic we eventually found a place to stay close to the Mediterranean coast, huge waves and wintry looking. The hotel was freezing, we were the only guests, a hot shower and then we had to hop into bed at 4 pm to keep warm!
Oued Laou to Ceuta, 104 km
Still drizzling the next morning but wind a bit less as we headed off, 5 headlands to go up over and down along the coast until we made it the 45km to Tetouan. Got there around 1pm, had some lunch, still freezing, so decided to keep going and try to get to Cueta and then a ferry to Algerciras. The rest of the day we rode along the coast passing lots of resorts and hotels, but noone around in early spring. Border crossing no problem, into Spanish Cueta, ferry ticket purchased at 5pm, clocks forward an hour for Spanish time then ferry departed at 7.45, only took 45 minutes, rode off the ferry and into downtown Algerciras and found a cheap clean 'pension' to stay in. Big day but yipee back in Spain.
To sum up 2 weeks in the north of Morocco, really interesting and great cycling but off the beaten track maybe not so good for cycle tourists, we heard later it was much better south in the Atlas mountains. Next time ??
So much unemployment, which seems to have led to a real hopelessness for the men who sit around all day. Some of the towns are full of rubbish, fallen down houses, rubble, noone seems to care, we did not see a park and hardly a seat to sit on in some places. The women do all the work in the fields, run the house, gather food for the animals, bring up the children, then stay out of sight! I would not like to be a women in this country. I think I said that 30 years ago when I was here, it doesn't seem to have changed at all! It was an experience we will not forget but we are now looking forward to stress free Spain and the TransAndalus mountain bike trails in the southern provinces.
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