We spent a couple of days in Yazd, we were both actually really tired, so didn't roar around too much, just wandered about and took in the main sights. Although the riding the last week was not difficult, no big hills, the atmosphere here is very drying and harsh. The days are short so we were pushing ourselves a bit to get where we needed to be. And we feel like we have been on the go for weeks.
We took a bus to Esfahan, the 'jewel in the crown' must see city of Iran. From my observations the bus drivers seem to think cruise control is auto pilot and having a hand on the steering wheel optional! This driver spent the entire 5 hr trip, eating, including an entire bag of sunflower seeds which involved removing the husk on every single one with his teeth first... drinking, pouring many cups of tea from a flask which took 2 hands, smoking, talking on his phone and searching the internet... at the same time as overtaking massive trucks! We had a fantastic view of it all from seats 1 and 2.
We arranged to stay with warm showers hosts Rusool and Nasibe, a young couple who lived in Najafabad a smaller city 30 km out. We had good instructions from Rusool on how to get there but I was a bit concerned because the bus didn't get in till 3.45 and to get to their place by dark would be a mission. Turned out it was built up completely all the way between the two cities which slowed us down even more as we negotiated the traffic, the buses taxis and cars pulling in and out all the time, manic drivers, tooting at everything, speeding between judder bars and bouncing over them. Plus everyone slowing down to talk to us, swapping lanes to get closer, disrupting everyone behind them. We are surprised we didn't cause an accident. It's hard to describe being amongst this kind of traffic, you kind of get swept along in the chaos and really have to have your wits about you. Iran has the worst driving stats in the world, some 22000 deaths per year. Yet their roads are pretty good. The highways are almost all 2 lanes or more each way with wide open spaces between traffic going either way. Sometimes you can't see the road or traffic going the other way.
Anyway to continue we found a friend along the way, a couple on a motorbike carrying their young child and many shopping bags. They called up Rusool to confirm the meeting place and we followed them the final 10 km as it got dark.
Just as we stopped a car slowed down and someone handed Trevor some fresh bread out of their car window. Suddenly there was mayhem and we were surrounded by policemen, (2 cars of them) and lots of people. I noticed our motorbike friends quickly disappeared before we had a chance to say thank-you. At the same time Rusool arrived and introduced himself and thankfully quietly sorted everything out. Apparently the policemen took exception to our (NZ) flag believing it to be from the UK - there's been issues here with the UK in the past - and they didn't want us to have it on our bike. Even after they were told it was the NZ flag, which they said they had no problem with, they still told us to fold up our flag. So of course we did. Perhaps showing us their power... And they have plenty of that here. Hmm - Time to get rid of the Union Jack...
We continued, the crowd dispersed, turned out our motorbikes buddies had been watching from a distance so we got to say thanks and goodbye and finally arrived at the sanctuary of Rusool and Nasibe's home. Phew.
We ended up staying a week and thoroughly enjoyed being immersed in Iranian life. We extended our visa at the consulate in Esfahan, (no problem) so we could stay longer in Iran if we wanted and to take away the pressure of having to be out by day 30. We enjoyed the company of Rusool and Nasibe, it was interesting to consider that our daughter and Nasibe are the same age and to think about the many similarities and differences in their lives so far.
There is actually far too much to say about this week in a blog. It is one of the most memorable weeks on our trip. When you consider visiting a country, you research it and figure out the things you want to see. You are mostly rewarded for the effort it takes to visit. Many people on tours just get to see the sights and are content with that.
We loved Esfahan, as some of our photos show (But Google it if you want the best pictures) It has tree lined boulevards, lovely gardens and important Islamic buildings. Big bridges over the river, which had no water in it until our last day when a damn was opened and the water trickled down. We visited the massive Naqsh-e Jahan Square, the original cities centrepiece. It is surrounded by beautiful buildings, Rusool and Nasibe took us to the Masjed-e Shah, a mosque completely covered inside by blue tile mosaics. Built in the early 1600s it is still stunning.
Then onto Mashed-e Jameh, it is also one of the most beautiful mosques we have seen.
Palaces, gardens, the bazaar, the Armenian quarter, we saw a lot but not everything.
But even better than all of that is having the opportunity to share in the lives of the people who live here. Sharing in a bbq meal with 8 young people, watching as they did everything from scratch, collecting the branches to burn even making the skewers for the kebabs all the while laughing and chatting in Farsi, including us in it all, well into the late night. Wandering under the Pol-e Si-o-Seh bridge in the evening, listening to the locals take turns to sing. Jumping up and down laughing at the precise spot that creates an echo when being shown around some of these massive creations. The meals we had with such welcoming people, different members of the family inviting us each night. The thoughtfulness, the surprise birthday cake and gift for Trevor. The cup of tea and biscuits with the bank teller, standing at the counter, before we paid for our extra visa. The conversations, the friendship, the respect people have for each other regardless of their nationality, where they come from or their religious beliefs.
The interesting chat with the elderly gentleman walking down the street about life before the revolution, his family, his genuine interest in our life. His life views on morality!
The Iranian people (rightly) feel very misrepresented in the eyes of the western world, quick to dispel any lingering terrorist label. But as we told them, we are here, it is not us you need to convince!
The government on the other hand is a different story and not one I intend to talk about in this forum. The only thing I will say is that almost every Iranian person who talked to us, (and we never asked the questions) volunteered their thoughts and said religion and politics should not be mixed and living in an undemocratic country without freedom is truly awful at times. And they have no idea how or if it could (ever) be changed.
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