Classic ride over the Dawna Mountains

Myawaddy to Kawkariek, 69 km
We crossed the border from Mae Sot over the friendship bridge. Half way across you change from driving on the left side of the road to the right.  Goodbye Thailand, Mingala ba Myanmar!
We had to stay in Mywaddy for the day as traffic on the road over the Dawna mountains goes east one day then west the next. We had read bikes and motorbikes could go any day but were told at immigration that foreigners were not allowed. So that was that! Enforced rest day. Found an ok place to stay and explored the town. Changed some money. To make it easy $1 US is approximately $1000 kyte. So we have 500 thousand dollars... A lot of notes.
Amazing the difference a border makes.  A very undeveloped country. The lack of infrastructure very obvious. Quite different from Thailand, a little bit of Chinese and Indian influence.
We had dinner with a Swiss couple, Bea and Piet who crossed the border just after us. They have been cycling for over 2 years.
Ready to go early next morning, excited but a little nervous too - as I always am in a new country! We passed a km long line of trucks waiting at the first police  check point for us just 9 km out of town where the one way rd began. I was not looking forward to those overtaking us.
Anyway off we went heading up through the mountains. Everybody smiled, waved and called out Mingala ba (hello)  All the kids at a school came running out to see us. I don't think they see many cyclists here. The traffic wasn't too bad, cars and small trucks only to begin with. The road was narrow and pretty bad in places, definitely not a two way road. There is a new road being built that will be open soon. We were almost at the top at 35 km when the first buses and trucks caught us up. We stopped for a drink and quite a bit of traffic passed. Going down the otherside was amazing. Switchbacks, really rocky places, soft sand in some parts, drop offs and the traffic coming over had to been seen to be believed. Huge trucks, overloaded small pickups. Taxi trucks over full with people. Trucks that couldn't get around corners, breakdowns, everyone tooting and overtaking.  Roadworks in places. All done by hand with drums of tar being heated up over fires. It was such a fun ride, really interesting. Last 10 km on the flat, a lot of the vehicles stopped and hosed water onto the brakes and engines, I guess trying to cool them down. We stopped for lunch -  with some of the other patrons spitting the red bettlenut that they all seem to chew... right onto the floor in front of us. Hmm
3 police immigration check points for the day then into town. First place we looked at to stay was like a prison cell minus the bars!
Foreigners can only stay at licensed hotels or guesthouses. The 3rd one was ok. Cold shower, hard beds but hey the day was awesome! Electricity just from 6pm till 4 am. Wandered downtown, spotted the bike taxi, ( photo) one person sits one way , one the other, local tea shop for dinner of omlette and fresh roti with Chinese tea.

Fit at last, last few days in Thailand, heading to Mae Sot - border town

Li to Thoen - 55 km  this is the only road we have done both ways and it was so much better going this way. Just a small climb to start and then a 30 km plus gentle downhill through lush shady bush.
We were there before lunch. Met up with the dutch cyclists again in the evening, but for beer this time.
Thoen to Bhumipol dam, 84 km, avoided the highway and took lots of little roads along the Ping river, flat ride but took all day. The accommodation was about 6 km from the dam. Met a German lady from Sri Lanka who had a hire car so we went with her to see the sunset at the dam which was nice. Biggest dam in Thailand, though very low on water. Also found the giant bike that we had seen photos of. The photo of the trees wrapped in cloth means they have been protected by the monks and cannot be cut down, we have seen it a lot.
Dam to Ban Tak, 35 km, enjoyed sticky rice cooked in bamboo for lunch along the way and dinner by the river.
Ban Tak to Mai Ramat, 98 km, 7hrs 40 riding time!!
We wanted to avoid the truck and bus highway from Tak to Mai Sot as we had heard it was not good for cyclists so opted for the lesser known remote mountain rd and tried not to be put off by non cyclists saying it would be impossible to ride.  We left early carrying extra food and water in case we had to camp on route. 10 km warm up then 20 km up through a valley to the top of the first range of hills. There was actually a village near the top and a brand new restaurant/guesthouse where we had an early lunch and contemplated staying but it was only midday so carried on. Up and down then up up up, our speedos down to 4 km per hr finally making it to the 2nd summit at 65 km. We came across the elephant crossing sign, not sure what I would have done if one had come  lumbering out of the bush...also some very remote villages with no obvious roads to them. As we were heading down a hill the school transport of 3 utes with high sides packed with about 50 kids standing up in the back was heading the opposite way.
A small shop at the top selling cold drinks, we sculled 2 each.  Plus chips, and a well needed rest! But I do believe we are fit!! No way could we have ridden that a couple of months back. It was epic. Down and undulating to Mai Ramat and found a place to stay with a comfy bed just before dark.
Mai Ramat to Mai Sot - 36 km. A no rush day. Early lunch by the river, then stopped down the road further over ice coffee for at least an hour, checked out lots of accommodation before we found the perfect spot for a couple of rest days. Wandered through the night and morning markets, spotting food I did not want to eat... Lots of fried bugs.
The main road into Myanmar has traffic going west one day then east the next because it is narrow, our first day will be 67 km.
Getting mentally prepared to be off the grid and out of touch as we have heard the internet is not very good.. Will be interesting, we have a 28 day visa.
So far we have ridden 5800 km, hard to believe!

Clicked over 5000 km, heading back to Chiang Mai

Due to the longer than expected mountain bike up the Mae Kok river  (YES Trevor, 30 something km to 60 something km  IS significant) we ended up staying about 10 km east of our original destination of Tha ton.
Tha ton is right on the Myanmar/Burma border but no land crossing there. Lots of police and border checks all around the north but we just get waived through. There is still a big drug problem here but with methamphetamine now, coming out of Myanmar. Border patrol boats on the Mekong river as well.
Tha ton is a nice town, we had coffee over looking the river. Boat trips go up and down from Chiang Rai.
Continued to Fang, only 35 km so well deserved cruisy day, found a nice place to stay (photo) with paddy fields and banana palms outside the window. Went to the only restaurant we could find open which was a new Italian place and ended up invited to join the 65th birthday party of a UK expat, lots of Australian wine flowing, a fun late night, generous gorgeous Thai people complete with birthday cake.
Fang to Chai Prakan, 40km, just an easy highway ride. It is a real trade off, hills and very little traffic or highway with good motorbike shoulder and traffic with noise. We have been mostly off the highways but some is unavoidable.
Chai Prakan to Phrao 70 km, rural roads, big hills, even some walking with bikes...Not many eating places today. Had glasses of tea in a 'Karen' village. A nice friendly Burmese guy stopped us outside his place, poured us tea and tried to converse in English. There are about 1 million ethnic minority inhabitants in Thailand.  ( about 10 different hill tribes ) They are not Thai citizens and most still live very poorly. They have come from China, Laos and Myanmar over the hills illegally over many years and settled. There has also been huge exploitation from tourists and vice versa over the last 30 years but there does seem to be some organizations now working to help preserve their individual cultures and identities. We have seen some of the older women in the villages still wearing their traditional dress and head wear but it is rare as change is inevitable.
Phrao to Lamphun, 124.5 km, longest distance yet.in one stint. It said 112 on the map but we managed to take a few wrong turns. Big day, still felt good at 80 k but last 25 near Chiang Mai was busy motorway. The traffic whizzing on and off is scary.
Made it back to Robert and Kung's, our lovely warm shower hosts that we stayed with on the way up. We were both pretty tired and were easily talked into staying for a couple of rest days and to see the annual Chiang Mai flower festival. The floats were amazing, the photos do not do them justice. We also enjoyed a night out at a new eating place serving great pizzas and the next night an all you can eat cook your own bbq. I think Kung was trying to fatten me up! The four of us also enjoyed a 20km cycle around their surrounding village. The itinerary Robert sorted for us around the north was fantastic.
Sunday morning we left to go to Hot, 94 km away. A few stops, food, coffee, puncture and a temple visit so did not arrive till 5.45pm. Dinner, 4 meals plus a tub of icecream from the 7/11 to finish off. We are eating a lot.
Hot to Li - another 94 km through dry  bush, some of the undergrowth being burnt off. Hot, smoky and smelly. Not a lot of villages or people. Very rural.
So we did 186km in 2 days on a detour to avoid about 115 on a highway... My legs are telling me  that was not the best option. Stopped for ice coffee with about 25 km to go and a dutch couple on bikes arrived as well so enjoyed chatting to them.