Eat - Sleep - Bike - Repeat... Slovakia and Poland

 Cycling Slovakia wilderness. July 2017

A great week here on part of the Amber trail. Tough 70km climb the 2nd day to Banska Stiavnica  - a nice world heritage mining town. We had a day off and looked around thanks to the very informative tourist centre guy then next day made our way 65km on a variety of quiet rds to Banksa Bystrica. A lovely old town in the centre, music, food and beer filled in the summer evening. 

Then a tough day. Not sure the lady at the info centre had ever been on a bike! But she convinced us the castle route was the one to take. It was a great way to leave the city, anything to stay off main highways.Then up through Spania Dolma - really steep - where we visited an ancient church - then on up to Donavoly, a ski area. We ended up taking a cross country route, it started well as tarmac but disintegrated to mud, rocks and finally grass - it took us all day to do 35 km. Definitely an adventure, we did see hikers, a haymaker and a sheep herder so not totally isolated. But very pleased to get somewhere in the end - laxed out enjoying the 1 euro beer and tennis on tv at the local pub. Every settlement in Slovakia has a bar. Before a shop. Beer is cheaper than coffee - actually it's hard to buy coffee. Locals have beer with a shot - gin I am told! We did around 65 km each day down through Dolny Kubin where we camped then stayed right near the border with Poland, clocking over 2000km that day. It was really hot all week. We arrived near the border on a Sunday afternoon. There was a bottle store, restaurant, pool, bbq and two apartments upstairs. We decided it looked good and were soon settled in. It was quite busy with people around. But about 7 there was no one. Everything was locked up, we were locked in. No tv, radio or wifi. It was sooo eerily quiet! We played cards, had a great sleep, let ourselves out the next morning and were in Poland by 8am. 

The start of the trail to Donavoly.

Run out of food - I have resorted to dry muesli...

Welcome sight of the village.

Lovely ski lodge for the night.

Another old castle 

Poland

It's not all about Pierogi in Poland! 

We cycled exactly 1000km in Poland. 

First day was 90km through lots of villages, they just rolled from one to the other then went around a lake and on to Auschwitz. Spotted a couple of deer running down a river bed. Narrow roads and speedy drivers. We were really frazzled and spent the day going on and off footpaths. We toured Auschwitz - Birkenau the next day. Just a sad sad place. 

We took the regional train to Krakow - what a great city. We stayed 4 nights, a brand new apartment right on the edge of the old city for just 40 euro. The $NZ goes a long way here. Wages are very low.  Everything is about a third of the price of NZ. Krakow old town and squares are surrounded by trees with cycling and walking paths all around it. We did a tour of the Wieliczka salt mine. It goes down about 135 metres underground. Really interesting. It opened in the 13th century. There are lots of Chapels made by the miners. Plus the Castle visit. And so many churches! I think Poland has more churches than Italy.

Then a few small rides around the river, a visit to the Jewish quarter where there was a festival on and lots of walking. Plus lots of eating. A great hole in the wall pierogi place - dumplings with filling -  just around the corner. Potato and bacon, cabbage and mushroom - Yum. Lots of tourists in the old town but fun and vibrant. 

Auschwitz

 Cathedral underground in the salt mine

Krakow pic

krakow around the castle area

Krakow old town

After some investigation and plan changing we  took the train east across country to Lublin so we could cycle the green velo north on cycle paths and quiet roads. The day riding to Auschwitz had almost put us off cycling in Poland! We stayed with a lovely couple and their adorable wee girl in Lublin for 2 nights.(warm showers hosts) Visited Majdanek concentration camp - and decided 2 was enough...the history of these countries jammed between Russia and Germany is pretty unpleasant. Another castle another old town!

Michael took us to a national park for an 8 km evening walk which was great despite the zillions of mosquitoes - 100 km round trip driving! Next day we followed a signed cycle route to his parents place - 70 km and enjoyed a fabulous night with them and his 2 other brothers. They translated well between us and their parents and we had lots of laughs around the fire.

Majdanek concentration camp Lublin 

A well documented memorial.

Out walking

Admiring the view

 Fun evening 

Random tank along the way

We started the green velo pretty much at the Ukraine/Belerus/Poland border and cycled 

800 km in 11 days. The full trail is 2000km.  The temperature dropped about 10 degrees after Lublin. Fantastic to cycle in mid 20's.

An easy relaxing way north. Good free maps with all the things to see, places to stay plus what is in each town on it.  Shelters every 10 km or so. Quiet roads. Not too many accommodation options but we managed. First night we stayed in a monastry. Sparten room but comfortable. Lots of rooms available. Next day we met a gorgeous young Polish couple - Adam and Anje. We had lunch with them at a shelter then caught up with them later in the afternoon standing in the middle of a deserted road. Adam had just proposed! So sweet. We met up again and stayed at the only hotel in town which was really flash and had the best breakfast. Next day we crossed the winding Bug river, no bridges but a free motorless ferry that was winched across. We found an 'agri-touristic' to stay in. Basically a room and bathroom in someones house. The guy spoke just one word of English, SUPER, so  that's what he said. We had been settled in a couple of hours before Adam and Anje arrived at 8pm. They had had a big day rescuing an abandoned kitten and finding it a home on a farm! There was no where left in town to stay and the next option was way further on. The room we had was big enough and had 2 beds so we all stayed together. It was great having them there to translate - apparently the guys wife was away and he usually had nothing to do with renting the rooms but was really nice and happy to help out. Plus very chatty in Polish. He showed us all his Russian tractor, hay and horse. A Super night!

Yes we are going to Zubry with Adam&Anje

Swamp day

A small church

No motor across the Bug river

Crossing the river

The route took us through the Bialowieza national park a primeval forest and world heritage sight. There are bison, lynx, wolves and more in the park but we didn't see anything. A night in the main town in the park and finally a restaurant - we were getting a bit tired of bread l, cheese and salami. These are small villages, very rural. Next day we met up with Adam and Anje again. - accidently! - and they then booked us to stay with them at a dinner bed and breakfast in Zubry. An old school renovated into a guest house in the absolute middle of nowhere. But fantastic. Lovely couple running it, great food and good room. Finally into Bialostock the only city we went to on the route where we stayed with a lovely family for 2 nights. (warm showers) Nice to have a day off and chill out plus it was raining hard out. Trevor got a haircut,  looks like he should be in the army!

Recharged and off early next morning, 110km later - our longest distance so far took us way west and north of the city through another park. There was nowhere to stay along the way so we just had to keep going to Goniadz. On to Augustow - lovely holiday town -  then last night in Poland was in Suwalki. 

Reflections of Poland, memorable for the lovely people we met and were lucky enough to spend time with.  Very traditional and conservative but the younger generations are trying hard to be heard and to change things.  Lots of people leave for higher wages in other countries. Monocultural.  Protests against the conservative, religious govt re their desire to change the judicial system have been loud and clear from opponents. Go the young progressive people - make lots of noise! 

So 3000km done, onward to the Baltic counries of  Lithuania, Latvia and Estonia before northern Norway. 

The remains of the Russian Tsar autumn retreat

Storks on every power pole. So cool!