Vienna to Budapest, Highs, lows and HOT

Back stage with my youngest brother Brendan, Cold Play concert - Vienna

Gotta say this was a highlight! After cycling around corn and wheat fields on the eurovelo 9 on the 'thermal spa route' finally getting to Vienna was huge. Wouldn't recommend that route, unless you have plenty of money to spend pampering yourself each night, and are keen on joining the white dressing gown clad groups at the spa towns. 

So back a day or 2,  Bad Radkursberg to Jennersdorf in south east Austria-75km

Cycling became a bit boring. Close to Hungary and Slovenia borders up and down through fields only popping up into one village. Finishing our emergency food in the absence of any cafes. But finally a lovely village and a stunning swimming pool complex in front of the campground, fantastic at the end of another hot day. Would have had a rest day if we were not rushing to Vienna.

We decided to get the regional train from just 14 km away to Vienna. Such a great idea as the route looked the same all the way. After a frantic race cross country around more wheat fields we made it in time to find there was just a self serve ticket box and timetable in German. With a bit of help from a shop assistant we got a ticket. Then on the train an enthusiastic Austrian train controller got us sorted changing trains and figuring out the right stop. We found our way right from the station on cycle paths all the way across the Danube to a campground - pretty average but close to the underground and the stadium. 

Saturday saw us looking around the beautiful city, amazing old buildings, then meeting up with Brendan for dinner. Brendan is part of the catering team who are on tour cooking for the Cold Play support team. About 165 pax! 

So we were very lucky to get family and friends treatment... Plus enjoyed the fabulous Sunday evening concert on a stunning summer night in Vienna!!!  

It was a great insight into band touring. We had a quick dinner with the crew b4 the concert after a few drinks and nibbles with a select few other people back stage...  After the concert the whole catering team was packed up waiting on the rest of the crew to finish. Then about 1am they departed in big black sleeper buses, 2 drivers plus crew in each, driving all through the night (and sometimes the next day) off to the next venue. Something that amazed me at the concert was that despite all the security people could still smoke, waving lighters and cigarettes around in such closed quarters. We were right down by the stage and so many people dancing and lighting fags and flicking lighters  - Freedom in Austria??? 

Enjoyed a 30km ride around  Vienna on the bike paths. So easy to get around. Fabulous seeing places I have grown up reading about and where lots of famous musicians lived. 

Actually on stage b4 the concert. 

Vienna - Bratsilava and beyond -  90km

After 3 early mornings, full days and late nights we left Vienna on the eurovela 6 heading east. An 8.30 start, a boring 50km without seeing anyone else and no river to see either. Eventually a coffee and icecream stop. Getting close to what used to be the iron curtain border villages became infrequent, further apart and a bit run down. Nothing like the Austrian alps area that we all see in the travel brochures. Then across the border, back to the river into Slovakia and the capital Bratsilava. Lots of big boats cruising up the river. We had an ice cream in the tourist street then waited in the huge queue for groceries and carried on along the river. A bit nicer on the trail here due to more people being about plus a few cafes and bars along the way. 90km done we found a campground at an impressive slalom kayak spot where lots of international teams were practicing. But no shade, lots of bugs and limited facilities.  Not the best day and sweltering in a tent made it not the best night!

Hungary

Goyr in Hungary

Onwards to Goyr - 65 km 

Packed up and away early. Quickly across the border into Hungary. Slightly more interesting ride today. Stopped for coffee at a local bar about 15km from Goyr. The cappuccino arrived with a huge dollop of canned cream on top. Then we were shouted a beer each by a local patron who didn't want us to leave but couldn't speak a word of English. Another couple of older locals arrived towing a trailer of stakes for the tomato plants. We met Xandor, he spoke English really well and invited us to put up our tent in his garden so we did. We met two of his sons and his wife Elizabeth and learnt lots about the lovely town of Goyr, about Hungary and about life before and after the Russians left. Really lovely family, great meeting and chatting to local people. 

Gyor to Komarno - 60 km 

After breakie at a local cafe we said goodbye and continued on a fairly rough route to Komarno. By 2pm we were over the eurovelo 6 - stinking hot - have I mentioned we are in the middle of an extreme heatwave? We were on our way to meet friends from Taupo in Budapest so followed the train line to the station and hey presto we were in Budapest by 5pm. A frantic ride through rush hour traffic but were quickly at the 2 room apartment sharing a cold beer with Jim and Julie. Fantastic. 

Goyr

Local Goyr family

View from our apartment in Budapest

Had a great few days being tourists in Budapest. Easy enough to get around on a bike. Fun time with friends. We all stuffed up on exchanging money - we ended up with 10x what we wanted - so plenty to spend. 

St Stephen's chapel

Another square

Looking from Buda to Pest

Danube with parliament in the background

The A team out n about 

The boys 

Shoes on the Danube - a poignant war memorial

Ruin bar visit

Budapest to Visegard 63 km

The 4 of us packed up and were on our way by 10. Jim successfully navigated us through the city and across the river then it was a collective effort to find the eurovelo 6 trail. Seems it goes a lot of places on either side of the river, in Hungary and Slovakia. Signs were confusing but we had a nice ride and a campground to ourselves. 

Next morning we cycled about 15km with Jim and Julie then we crossed the river to go north and they continued west towards Vienna. 

Visegard to Sahy - 67 km

Onto quiet roads cruising slowly north. So much nicer than a confusing trail being part of a wave of cyclists. We still had nearly $50 nz to spend so stopped at every store in every village. Impossible to spend. We managed to buy eggs, juice, bananas, bread, pasta sauce and cheese,  that was it. Plus Coffee, lunch, icecream and beer and heaps left over. Crossed the border back into Slovakia - no one wants Hungarian florens there but it was quite a big town so there was a money exchange booth up the road!!  Found an ok motel for the night. Getting cheaper at only 35 euro. So now on what is known as the Amber trail - selection of quiet routes -  that go from Budapest in Hungary through Slovakia to Krakow in Poland. 

I Feel sLOVEnia. Their slogan

SLOVENIA - the only country with love in it's name - so they tell us. May 31 - June 8 

Travisio - Kobarid 55km

Up up & up over the pass then an incredibly steep down, stunning views of the Julian alps, until we reached the Soca river valley and cruised into Kobarid. Nice coffee stop on the way down. Price has gone down to Euro 1.30!! Supplies were being delivered by van to the mtn villages we cycled through. First impressions - the people are very friendly. Quiet, Traditional. Unpopulated. Very little traffic. The soca river is a beautiful blue green colour. Adventure tourism around there. Loads of kayakers. Great campground. Wandered up to a gorgeous waterfall on dusk. Lots of war caves in the area. Picked up a good map of cycle routes. 

Kobarid to Koritnica - 58km

A really hot day as we made our way down the river valley. Stocked up in Tolmin - a slightly larger town. Had a long afternoon break by the river b4 heading up and up to Koritnica. Clocked over our first 1000km so celebrated in style with a couple of Lasko beers, a bag of chips and then a pot of gnocchi - a change from tortellini! Thought we were going to be the only 2 in the campground but a couple of guys arrived late in a jeep. But seems the camp bar/pizzeria was the local evening hangout so we were not lonely. 

Koritnica to Bohiniska 50 km 

We are (reluctant) HILL CLIMBERS! Toughest day so far. A huge climb in the heat. Then the road we were supposed to take along the ridge was closed due to rd works so we had to go 7 km down to a river then back up another rd which was incredibly steep. The sign at the bottom showed 16% with arrows for 3km. It was so tough. We were zigzagging our way up with me saying - yelling -  if I have to get off to push my bike then we are turning around and heading for Ljubljana instead of Lake Bled! We made the 3km to a small village. We collapsed in a heap at the bar/cafe and eventually ordered lunch. The meals were massive. I had an omelette which came with half a plate of fries and Trevor had a pizza big enough for 4. An hour later, 2 coffees and iced water in our drink bottles and off we went. Straight on up. We reached the other end of the closed road where we should have come out then it just continued on and on up. Another 8 km. We had eaten way too much and were paying for it. So slow, so hard and took forever to get to the ski field at the top. We had just started the descent when we met a cross country skier training with his blades and poles coming up the other side. Now that is tough! We decided to stop in Bohiniska as we were exhausted and it looked like the afternoon thunder clouds were rolling in. 

Bohiniska to Lake Bled 32 km

Only 20km to Lake Bled. A fast cycle down the valley. We were all set up in the campground b4 lunch. A beautiful spot right near the lake. There is a 6km walk/bike around the lake so we biked around and through the town area. There is a small island with a church on it in the middle if the lake. Also a big castle high above the lake. We walked up to a viewpoint. Lake Bled is quite iconic in Slovenia. Very picturesque. 

Lake Bled to Ljubljana 67 km

There are lots of cycle routes around this area. You could spend a week or more just cycling around them all but we decided to continue as planned to Ljubljana, the capital of Slovenia. But we did follow the D2 route that took us on lots of quiet roads through villages to Kange and then back roads to Ljubljana. No highways at all and right into the centre of the city on a bike path.  We stayed in a small apartment for 2 nights. First washing machine! Had a good look around the city centre - quite old and historic, a river goes through the middle so there are lots of bridges. We walked up to the castle and enjoyed the big park nearby. A green city where everyone seems active. Had our first full day off the bikes. But our feet and backs hurt from walking too far. 

Ljubljana to Maribor - caught the train to here to save a couple of days as have plans in Vienna for the weekend... But looked to be a flat ride. They only have the local trains here. 2 carriages. Not much space for our bikes. So we had to jump up at every stop to move one bike from the door way - to let people on or off - there were 25 stops on the 2.5 hr journey! A nice wander around the 2nd largest city, didn't seem big at all. But a huge shopping centre with the best supermarket we have seen in a month complete with cafe outside so Trevor was happy hanging with the bikes. And free wifi which has been everywhere in Slovenia. I actually enjoy shopping in foreign shops. Trying to figure out what it is I am buying and there are lots of interesting delis and breads. We've been loving all the summer fruit. Cherries, strawberries, nectarines and apricots have been great. 

Loaded up (complete with 1/2 a cooked chook) we biked 7km out to the campground under another skifield currently sporting the summer luge. Great place to stay - have to say the facilities for camping have been fantastic. With great summer weather it has been nice sitting outside - cooking our own food and nice chatting to other people. Met lots of Barvarian couples in campers lately. They seem to say they are from Barvaria - not Germany.

Maribor to Bad Radensburg - Austria- 70 km

Cruised along - now on the eurovelo 9, about 35 km we stopped in Senjli which was an important border stronghold over the years and scene of many struggles. Not now, straight through to Austria no-one there.

Its been interesting learning some of the history of Slovenia, so many invasions and takeovers by so many countries over the centuries. There were many important trade routes through here. Just the last 26 years since the iron curtain fell apart and Yugoslavia split up has it been able to just be its own country. A lovely country. Peaceful. Well maintained. Everyone has their vege plot. No one seems in a rush. Friendly. Fantastic for cycling. But the people tell us they are still working just to make ends meet and have nothing leftover for a holiday or leisure activities. Low wages. Many villages with just the aging population as the young ones leave. Appears to be another European union country struggling.

Leaving Italy for Slovenia

Passo no 2 - not too bad

We cycled down through there somewhere!

Stunning scenery

Soca river 

Just look for the church steeple to find the town centre.

The first passo of the hill climb day.

Lake Bled

Crossing the river to Ljubljana

 Ljubljana

 Ljubljana

2nd week - Waking up - Bolzano to Travisio

800 km of paved cycling highways! Anyone can do this. 
Bolzano - Brixen/Bressonone - 65 km
We left Bolzano - lovely city - after another trip to our favourite camping store, decathlon, I was looking for a sunhat but came out with a yoga mat instead! Wraps nicely around the tent carried on the back of Trevors bike... Best 3 euro puchase.
All of a sudden it seems like we are not in Italy anymore but Germany or Austria. It is bilingual up here. All the signs have German and Italian - we have enough trouble finding our way and are now more confused by the additional German name which sometimes looks nothing like the Italian name at all. The houses are bigger and have lots of flower boxes around the windows growing red geraniums.  Many ski fields near by and plenty of accommodation. Stunning scenery and amazing paved bike paths. Lots of day bikers. E- bikes everywhere. Tours, families, groups, couples, bunches of road riders. It is definitely the leisure centre up here. We cycled up the river valley & stayed just north of Brixen in Varna. A nice campground with a pool.

Brixen - San Lorenzo - 75 km
We had trouble finding the track today. It seemed to be going completely in the wrong direction. We went up and down a  hill then up again - thinking we had it wrong until a cyclist confirmed we were on the right route. It wound up and around and connected with another route. We are now on the Munich - Venice route. Lesson learned, trust the signs. Plus it was really demoralising seeing the road signs. We had done 41km and the sign to Brixen said 14km! Then later in the day we passed a campground and headed to the one 12 km on only to find it still closed after winter and had to back track through Brunico. So a bigger day than planned. Too late for a swim. The nights and mornings are a bit chilly up here.

San Lorenzo - Toblach/Dobbiaco 70 km
Back through Brunico and up this gorgeous valley, houses way up the hillside - it is really difficult to see the road that leads up to them. Lots of old castles. Hay making time. Every bit of grass, even the front lawn is turned into hay. Lots of people racking the hay. No animals to be seen. After 17 km we stopped at a bridge thinking we might head to the village for lunch. There are information boards near the villages showing the bike trails and attractions. I had a look and checked the map to discover we were not in the valley we had intended to be! So we turned around, back to Brunico for the 4th time and up the river towards Toblach. So what was to be a short 36km day turned into 70. But it was a lovely ride. A big campground with lots of campers and a few cyclists with little tents. The small tent sites tend to be down the back under the trees about 500 metres walk to the toilet block!  2 restaurants so we had pizza again as the local shop had not much of anything. So cold in the morning & a long wait for the sun to hit the tent. 

Toblach - Cortina d Amprezzo - 45 km
A little bit of a climb on an unpaved track then finally it was the start of the descent - fast down whizzing through the trees overtaking all the e bikes.  The dolomites are all around us. Stunning. We were here 6 years ago doing some via ferrata climbing - so cool to be back - and I remembered how to get to the supermarket! But everything except restaurants were closed until 3.30 so we had a long leisurely lunch break with a lovely German couple cycling Munich to Venice. Then a big shop up as nothing is open on Sundays - and often not on Saturday afternoon. Only 1 of the 3 campgrounds was open, down by the river. Was a nice easy day.

Cortina d Amprezzo - Calalzo 45km
A bad start as we took the wrong rd from the campground which headed straight up a steep hill. After 2 km in low gear we figured it was not the track, back down and after a small mtn bike track we then had 40 km of paved downhill - just incredible. Tagged the last couple of days with 2 Norwegian guys heading to Venice, a bit quicker than us but we caught up everytime they had a break. Great to chat about Norway. We left the bike path (as we want to go east to Slovenia) and camped just over the dam in Calalzo. Another pretty easy day. 

Calalzo to Tolmezzo 77km

A big day today over the passo d Mario. A little bit on a highway then turned off onto a mountain road and up we went - pretty hot - seems it is unusually hot at the moment. Highs of 31 and dry. Gradient not too bad , we pedalled slowly for 1.5 hours to the pass. Lots of 'bravo and respect' calls today. Passed little winter cottages and cross country ski trails. Lots of tornants - switchbacks.  No fanfare at the top, too early for the cafe and no toilets - although that is unsurprising - I could count on one hand the number of public toilets we've come across in 2 weeks! Then an exhilarating speedy downhill to a small village. Just in time to join the locals at the bar - yes they were drinking wine before 12! One old guy wandered over to practice his English. A Large pizza and 2 capuccinos and then it was up & down for the next 40km. Not much traffic but a 2213 metre tunnel straight through a mountain. Well lit. But I still bolted through. The engineering in this country is amazing. Motorways up high around cliffs for 100s of kms, tunnels & bridges everywhere. Huge monstrosities.  We have been on a lot of old railway lines. They seem to have built new lines for the fast trains! Made it to Tolmezzo and the tourist office ladies booked us into a lovely bnb right in town. Had a gelato stop and a look around town until the lady arrived home. A fully self contained loft with a nice deck. 55 Euro. And great breakfast. The internet was down so we couldn't check our route to Slovenia so she phoned a cycling buddy and sorted the best way. So lovely.

Tolmezzo - Travisio 77km

A few kms on the rd then a bike track all the way up the river valley. Amazing old rail tunnels. Breath catching cold in some of them. Like going into a freezer. The LED lights come on as you enter. Some tunnels are a km long. A long day slightly up all day. I think my legs were a bit tired from yesterdays pass. Cheap basic hotel in Travisio. Only 10 km from Austria and 8 km from Slovenia! 

Can't believe how tired we were after the first week. Feeling a lot more alive this week with a bit of energy left at the end of the day to sight see or get a meal. Feeling fitter...

Observations from Italy. So many people on the flat lands. So much rubbish to deal with - so many skip bins on every street. Pretty monocultural. Seems every restaurant is Italian cooking pizza & pasta. Not big on takeaways - eat in for the same price. And nice to go to local places - no big franchise takeaways anywhere. Most people politely ignore each other. Seems they are very used to living on top of one another. But friendly if you engage them. The pedestrian rules - must be the law to stop. Ciao from Italy. Slovenia beckons. 🌹

View from campsite

Another tunnel

117 cyclists that morning and 4215 for the year

Cortina d Amprezzo

1st big climb!

Olympic ski jump Cortina d Amprezzo

If in doubt build a bridge