Foros do Queimado to Avis - 94 km
We stopped at Evoramonte and Estremoz on the way to see the castles and view, luckily they were the only strenuous climbs for the day and arrived at the campground in Avis about 5 pm. We chatted to a dutch couple while having a beer so it was 7 before we decided to put the tent up. Then I noticed I had a puncture. It took ages to fix as we (Trevor) could not find the hole in the tube. We got the tent sorted then Trevor cut his finger while opening a can. While I was finding the bandaid he called out he didn't feel so good and promptly fainted!! (The sight of blood??) So not such a great end to what had been a good day.
Avis to Abrantes - 71 km
Slow start to the day and took it easy. Way too much speedy traffic on very narrow roads but we should be on quieter roads soon. Another municipal campground, brand new, charging just 5 euro, one third of what we paid in Spain. 80 p beers at a cafe or 1 litre bottles for 1 euro. Seems so cheap to us coming from NZ but minimum wage here is only about 600 euro per month. That is equivalent to $225 NZ per week and unemployment is still high. Standard of living does not look as high as NZ. But such an easy country to cycle in and what I love is it is so unpretentious. Coffee, with or without milk, that's it, no latte, cappuccino, mochoccino... Wine comes in any type of glass and the glass is full, beer comes in a wine glass or a tumbler, anything goes, its great!
Abrantes to recreational area near Serta - 52 km
Quieter roads, getting greener, hills and slightly cooler, smaller villages, less people. We were directed to a camping area by a helpful shop owner. 8 km later, a gorgeous spot, lovely place to swim, toilets open, running water but no one around. We stayed anyway. Very peaceful and the lights even came on at night...
Serta to Figueiro dos Vinos - 49 km
Not a great day, we both just felt really flat with no zip. Probably the 4 huge up and downs to the river had something to do with it so called it a day at a hotel and enjoyed the luxury.
Figueiro dos Vinos to Serpins - 63 km
Much cooler this morning and climbed up and up into the clouds. We could hear the noise from the wind turbines but could hardly see them. Nice bush with ferns near the top. Jacket and arm warmers on for the awesome descent, wow it is nice to feel cold, through villages of houses built with schist rock and into Lousa and lunch near a small castle. It showed a camping site on the map but as we have found out they can be in a 50 km radius! It was not in Lousa but 10 km further on by a river. As we were looking at the map an elderly gentleman came along and chatted in Portuguese to us. We managed to communicate and he insisted on escorting us on his scooter. He had to buy petrol first then 3 km up the road he stopped for a drink and a pastry and brought us a beer. It may have been his local, he was enjoying telling everyone what he was up to. He looked so chuffed as he delivered us to the campground, I think it made his day and we appreciated it as well. The village church and clock tower was very close, it chimed very loudly every hour during the night, the only one I slept through was the 3 am one. Not sure why everyone needs to know the time 24 hours a day...
Serpins to Vide - 49km
Another lovely campground near a river. We took a wrong road in the afternoon and went up a big hill along a busy road then back down to the river when we should have been by the river all day. Looking on the bright side there was a lady selling cherries on the side of the road for just 3 euro per kg. Yum.
Vide to Torre - 54 km. INSANITY
The big day had arrived. 10000km on the speedo and to make it memorable we decided to ride to Portugal's highest point. At 1995 metres is a ski field in a park with spectacular scenery. But getting there was not easy. We had a cruisy 12km along the river then 29km of up. Gradients of 10, 12 and 14% in low chain ring all the way. Pesky flies hovering around all day driving me nuts. At the 21 km point the road we were on intersected with a more major road coming up from a different place. I was very tempted to call it a day and wizz down that road but my partner in crime was having none of that and was like "why, we are nearly there, only 8 km to go..." 8 km up after 21 still took a very long time. But we made it, then whizzed down a few kms and found a closed campground. A Portuguese cyclist was there as well. So many sandflies! Quick wash and dinner then we had to hide in the tent but it was almost dark by then. An insane day.
Valhelhas -35 km
We were so tired we just ambled slowly down through an old, spectacular, glacial valley and on to a campground by a river where we stopped at 2 pm, relaxed, had a dip in the river and enjoyed doing nothing.
Valhelhas to Guida - 54 km
On and up to Guarda where we found a bike shop to get some more brake pads for my bike, I had issues coming down the big hill! To celebrate our 10000 km I got some new hand grips and Trevor bought a real pillow...
Guarda to Figueiro de Castelo Rodrigo - 65km
Very rural area near the Spanish border, we stayed in a small hotel and on Sunday morning as we were leaving we saw the flower displays (photos) that went for over a km all around the streets and up to the church. The locals had been up hours getting it done. It was an annual religious celebration and we saw it at other churches that day but not that elaborate, it was quite amazing to see.
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