Jaen province and cycling through the largest natural park in Europe

Los Laneros to Embalse de La Bolera - 20 km
We continued climbing the Trinco valley, until we came out on a tarmac road sided with wheat fields complete with wild poppies growing all amongst it. Maybe that is why the Spanish eat so much bread?? Into the village of Campocamara to the panaderia (photo)  to pick up bread and then to the only shop. The elderly grocer spoke a little English, he studied our map and route and was adamant that we should not cycle 66 km through the park but should go 130 on the road around it. He was very animated and said, "there are no people, just animals, there is no water, there is no food, it will take you more than 12 hours... For the sake of my people I tell you which way to go"  He was very concerned! Of course we took notice but did what we intended anyway as that was exactly what we were looking for.
We finally found our way to the campground which was on the edge of the park after a great lunch spot over looking the valley. There was also a small unrideable section which took a bit of time to navigate over the rocks.  (photo) We decided to rest for the afternoon and start early the next day. We are now in Jaen province which is surrounded by mountain ranges.
Embalse de La Bolera to a Refugio - 40km
An awesome days riding halfway through the Sierra de Cazorla natural park,  passed a water reservoir, up through a pine forest, we spotted lots of processionary caterpillar nests in the trees and the damage they do but no big lines of the caterpillars despite it being the season. The hairs on the caterpillars are poisonous and can cause severe allergic reactions.  A big descent to a river and then another climb opening up long sweeping views of rugged terrain,  deep canyons and uninhabited country.
We stopped for the night at the Refugio de Rambla Seca, a small hut, with water,  there were a few refugios along the way catering for walkers and cyclists. We sat outside at dusk watching lots of deer  wander by. There is a road right through the park although our trail was not always on it. Some stock wandering and a few farmers about. Two French couples doing a rally in Volkswagen jeeps arrived late and camped outside for the night but left very early. So we did see people and animals, drink water and ate lots of the food we carried!
Refugio to Hornos de Segura -  65 km
The landscape changed to become very open and rocky, almost lunar like. It was easier riding for this half of the park although we did reach 1800 metres. We were out of the park by lunchtime and continued on through Pontones to Hornes crossing the water divide between the Mediterranean and the Atlantic. So now if there is water in the river it goes out to the Atlantic.  A fantastic descent followed by the usual steep climb to the historic village of Hornos de Segura perched on a hill. It was only 4 pm so we joined a dutch couple at a cafe for a cold beer and the tapas of olives and potato chips while we waited for the supermarket to open. The campground was a further 12 km on the otherside of town, 4 km straight down then 8 steadily up, we arrived at 8 pm having left at 8 am that morning. Tent up, shower, dinner, bed. Exhausted again. I feel we are slow learners!