May 2015, Jaen province, Spain
Hornes to an old Roman bridge - 'Puente Moche' - 45 km
A slow start to today after our late arrival last night and two punctures before we left the campsite! I would have been happy to have a rest day but the swimming pool was still empty. So 12.30 before we left, a cruisy day on the road then through orchards and found a spot to camp by an old Roman bridge and ruins. (photo of bridge) The locals were out riding their horses in the evening.
Puente Moche to Aldeahermosa and into the Sierra Morena - 63 km
We felt like we were wandering around olive groves getting lost all morning but finally found our way into a wild mountain area and a river valley, devoid of all traffic. The instructions for each stage of the transandalus are pretty good, our interpretation is not always but it takes you places you would never consider going or be able to find. It was incredibly hot so we rested in the shade during the heat of the day then continued after 6 till 8 when we made it to the river. Just enough of a puddle to cool off in, joining the turtle and the frogs. When we opened one of Trevors panniers earlier in the day we found a hitchhiker, a bright green, large and very long centipede! Gave us a fright!! The locals assured us it was harmless.
On to Aldeaquemada & beyond -59 km
Seems like there is just us in this park, we biked through a hunting estate, not hunting season, gates only accessible to cyclists. We saw a few snakes, they are actually quite striking when you see them slither across the road in front of you. An up and down day in the heat. Aldeaquemada only has one road in and it is 22km from the next town. We came to it across country through farmland. It was the annual local food luncheon and everyone was in the square just finishing the food. It also meant the accommodation was booked out. We had a cold drink then at 4 pm decided to continue, 13 km up a winding narrow rd in the heat. A big ask. Then a steep 9 km descent where we could see huge motorways and railway lines and traffic that we hadn't seen for days. The recreation area we finally found was totally overgrown and had not been used for a long time. We weren't sure how far it was to the next accommodation. It had been a long day and we were hot/grubby/tired and hungry, which meant I was also really grumpy by then! Trevor managed to clear a spot for our tent while I sat in the river and cooled off... I couldn't handle the rocks and bugs. The last photo is the profile of some of this day.
Recreation Area to Banos de La Encina - 49 km
We passed a campground just 7 km up the road that we did not know about!
We are in the Parque natural de Despenaperros with remains of old Roman roads and ruins. These mountains were the natural frontier between the Christians and Moorish kingdoms and an area where lots of battles took place. Morning riding through tree lined roads to La Carolina then a hot dry afternoon with no shade through farms, on walking trails, opening and closing gates, taking very wide berths around the enormous bulls in the paddocks and on to a much deserved hotel after 3 nights wild camping. It had a balcony with a gorgeous view of the Castillo de Burgalimar, built in 968 (photo)
Banos de La Encina to Andujar - 46 km
Mostly trail through an area that remains a refuge for the Iberian Lynx but unfortunately we did not see any. It is really heating up, the temperature seems to have jumped almost 10 degrees to 35 ish. A pretty average hotel by a motorway.
Andujar to Cardena - 58 km
Now in Cordoba province. All the way down to a dam then all the way up to Cardena where we found the hotel was closed. We joined the locals for a beer, found out there was a massive unseasonal heatwave happening over southern Spain that would last another week and Cordoba happens to be the hottest. We filled up with water and headed back to the trail where we had spotted a good place to camp.
Cardena to Alcaracejos - 70 km
We decided to do a few days on the road,as the trails and terrain around Cordoba did not look that inspiring and we really need to head west if we are going to get to Portugal before summer. Quite open rolling agriculture area, almost a plain. Wheat and hay. We were away by 9am, very early for Spain and did 70 km before 1 pm. The temperature guage in Alcaracejos showed 41 as we rode in. We downed 1.5 litres of juice each, had lunch in the shade then found a nice,
(smoking forbidden) hotel - can you believe some hotels still have ash trays in the rooms?? Aircon and tennis on TV so chilled out till it was pizza time at 9.30 pm. The pizza was so big we could not eat it all so enjoyed the leftovers for breakfast.
Alcaracejos to Fuente Obejuna - 81 km
Another road day of rolling hills and watching the big black vultures circling around. It was actually only 65 km to the town and we arrived at 4pm. Then we found the campground had closed and were sent 8 km out of town but maybe something was lost in translation because we couldn't find anywhere to stay. There was too much rye grass and it was windy, making us sneeze, so wild camping was not an option so headed back to town to a hotel. 16 km for nothing after a big day. Ahh. It was local body election time and the hotel was holding the speeches so we finally got a room at 8 pm.
Fuente Obejuna to Alanis de La Sierra - 63 km
We only saw 3 cars and 2 motorbikes today, rough and hilly but an okay and interesting back road across country, crossing provinces from Cordoba to Sevilla. We stopped to eat and drink early (Saturday) evening in Alanis as no shops were open. We were invited to join a group of women at the table nearby. They were all teachers and one loved cycling and running. When they thought we were going to continue to a campground we were offered a small apartment for the night. So lovely! People are so generous. Just us and an old castle to wander around the next morning. (photos)
Alanis to Cazalla de La Sierra - 30 km
Finally finding shady trees and rivers, so different from a few days ago. Spring flowers everywhere and a great 20 km walking/biking trail through bush to a campground by the river. Almost a rest day and a relaxing Sunday afternoon.
9000 km on the speedo.
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