Portugal - The Best Pastries, The Cheapest Coffee

Portugal, May 22 2015.
48 km We crossed over from Spain into South Eastern Portugal at Barrancos, first day impressions were:
- A lot more people speak English
- There is more life in the villages
- The people are more open and friendly
- The bread is much nicer
- The coffee is mainly a short black but even with milk is very cheap at 70 - 90 p

We headed into a natural parque for the night. It looked green with trees and a river in the brochure, in reality it was stinking hot, a dusty bumpy gravel road for 10 km to a crumbling castle then another 4 back to the only accommodation, which thankfully was really good, we had a huge backpacker type wing to ourselves. Huge thick stone walls keeping it cool. So hot outside and we were told it gets to 50 degrees plus in the summer.
Barrancos to Luz - 74 km
Long straight roads across a plain to the largest man made lake/reservoir in Portugal. Landscape of grape vines and olive trees. Very open and hot. Not a lot of traffic but what there was went by scarily fast. Not liking that one bit! We wild camped the night at Luz by the lake, we had to wait till the goat herder went home and it was nearly dark before we put the tent up as there were no trees to hide amongst. (Photo)
Luz to Evora - 77 km
We were joined in the night by hundreds of dandy long leg spiders, our entire tent and vestibule area was covered in them. At least it wasn't tarrantulas! We were up and gone early and joined the locals for coffee and pastries just 10 km up the rd.
More straight flat roads but a bit of a shoulder to ride in so was okay. Eucalyptus trees as well as cork oaks and more grape vines. A large campground in Evora filled with massive camper vans and caravans driven by mainly retired European tourists on vacation. This must be the place to visit. Our little tent looked a bit out of place and I did look wistfully at the van next to us with the bikes on the back. It looked so easy!!
We took a day to look around Evora, a great old Roman city,  leaving the bikes in the square and walking to the sights. (Photos)Looking at a palace and wondering how it could possibly be designed using parchment and a quill! The most memorable place was the bone chapel, completely filled with human bones and skulls. Quite unusual with an inscription over the door saying "We bones that are here, we are waiting for yours"  I just put in one photo - hope it does not freak anyone out.
An enjoyable day spent eating, drinking and walking - tired feet for a change.
We headed  just 30 km north the next day and stayed with Johanna and Nuno, longtime cyclists, their latest trip took 2 years cycling from New Zealand back to Portugal. We stayed 2 nights just relaxing and enjoying their company and chatting. They live in a  traditional Portuguese house in a very small village happily growing a large vege garden and looking after their dog.  A lovely place to relax. But oh so hot, we will head inland next to the greener area and mountains.